Day 39 Pilgrim Mass at the Cathedral

Our last duty as pilgrims was to attend the pilgrim mass at the cathedral at midday. It was packed but we managed to get seats. The numbers ofpilgrims arriving that day in Santiago with the nationalities and starting points was read out and we even got to see the huge incense burner, the 'botafumeiro' swung which was brilliant (perhaps it was paid for by the American tour group). Then we went behind the altar to hug the statue of St James and then down into the sepulchre to revere his bones. I lit two candles for my dad there as he asked me to.

We were now tourists and went off for lunch and a massive souvenir binge! We hadn't done any shopping for weeks so it was fun.

Day 39 Final Destination: The Field of Stars

Today in the misty dawn, Irena and I set off for Santiago de Compostela. We were quiet walking in with a few other pilgrims through the city outskirts and we had our last cafe con leche as pilgrims too.

Eventually we entered the historical city centre and the buildings became more and more impressive until we finally entered the square in front of the cathedral overlooked by the Parador hotel (where we decided not to stay as there weren't enough beds per room).

We went to the Pilgrims Office to get our 'compostela' certificate from the cathedral and we also each paid for an extra distance certificate. There was a queue but people were in a good mood and it moved quickly. We felt elated and went to take pictures in front of the cathedral. As I took a photo of Irena with her credentialsuddenly a tour guide for a large group of Americans called out, 'And here is a real pilgrim...' and immediately she was surrounded by people taking her photo and asking her questions. One American man gave her 30 euros as a tip which annoyed her greatly and which she gave back. I also got hugs from two of them when they learnt I'd walked too. It was hilarious!

Day 38 Mount Joy

We are now in the huge municipal aubergue (500 places) on Monto do Gozo (Mount Joy) overlooking Santiago. This is the place where the pilgrims of old would break down in tears of joy at their first sight of Santiago. We just looked shell-shocked.

It was a demanding trek today up over the hill then down to cross the river and up over the next hill and so on. Still this walk through Galicia has been lovely - and great mild temperatures and no rain.

We had a nice pilgrim's menu meal last night at the aubergue. And we enjoyed the luxury of sheets and there  just being the two of us though we got no key for the room  and so never locked the door.

We set off after a picnic breakfast in the room at around 7. We managed to get Santa Irena stamps in the village of Santa Irena for our credentials which pleased us. We stopped for a bowl of Galician soup at lunchtime and watched all the pilgrims go by. It did get a bit crazy for a while with Americans swinging beer bottles, Italians with selfie sticks, big groups of Spanish parents and kids including infants in prams with special pilgrim shouts.

Now we are waiting for our clothes to finish washing. Irena is in her swimming costume as she wants to wash all her clothes. Then I hope we will find a beer.

I can't believe we have walked so far! I look at the map and the distances seem so huge. Tomorrow my pilgrim life will end and I'll become a tourist - buying souvenirs and walking about without my pack. Yipee!

Day 37pt 2

More pics

Day 37 A fall coming in to Salceda

Just as we were congratulating ourselves on our good progress today and our ease of progress compared to yesterday, we were reminded how demanding walking the camino can be. Yesterday we saw a strong fit Italian man, who had walked a long way along with us, suddenly limping with a pulled achilles tendon and who had to take a taxi in the end and was very disappointed.

Today in the last 3km, Irena suddenly took a hard fall as a group of Italians passed us. She split her lip and grazed her knee. Her glasses were her first concern  and luckily they were fine. A kind girl in a bar gave us some ice for her face and it doesn't look swollen. Irena is a tough woman and after swabbing her cuts we went on our way. We stopped at the first aubergue we found where we were given our own ensuite room for 12 eur each, which is what we paid last night for a room with 6 others so we are quite pleased.

Apart from that we had a nice pilgrim picnic in the first village out of Arzua. There were lots of new pilgrims but we had plenty of peaceful walking and the route was again a lovely one.

Now we are relaxing with a beer as our clothes are washed.

Last night I got a massive steak the size of the plate. Despite walking 26 km I only managed part of it. Irena had pulpo.

Tomorrow is the last full day of walking and we only have 22km to go, then we will stay 4.5km from Santiago and walk in early the last morning.

Day 36 The walk to Melide

We had a nice meal of bread, cheese and wine last night. This morning we set off at around 6.20 to Palas de Rei. We stopped for coffee and a croissant for breakfast and saw our first big school group. We bought bread, cheese, ham, salami and a tomato and made big sandwiches for lunch. Then we set off on the long 14km journey to Melide. The route was a pleasant one but I was tired and am finding the last 100km hard. We did some singing for a while though which kept me going.

We walked around 26km and 53 remain for the next two  days.

Day 35 The push to Ventas de Narón

Yesterday evening was peaceful and refreshing beside the millpond, just chatting to other pilgrims and drinking beer. We chatted to an interesting Japanese man about our reasons for walking the camino and with a Swiss German man who had helped us find our albergue the day before.

At around 5 people began to get up and get out. We ate a yoghurt each and then set off in the dark to Portamarín. We walked through the Galician villages and rolling hills and dropped down into Portomarín where we saw the wide river, boats and gleaming white buildings.
We climbed down a treachorous path with huge steps to the road into town, crossed the bridge and climbed the steps to the old gateway. We visited the strange romanesque church like a fortress and ate a dish of Galician octopus - 'pulpo' in the square. I saw my first tour bus arrive and a smart Itlaian couple drank wine beside us. In fact we are out of phase with the main group of walkers who are going from Sarria to Portomarin so we still walked in relative peace.

After lunch we still had 13 km to go and after the first hour or so through pleasant woods it became a bit of a slog. We saw an Indian tour group on the path who took photos of us trudging up the hill and smiled and greeted us nicely. We also passed massive earthworks and a site of settlement from 4th century BC to 1AD.

Just as I thought we would never arrive and was looking for a ditch to throw myself into, Ventosa appeared and we got bottom bunks in an aubergue with a bar and are now enjoying beer, Spanish soap opera and a rest as our clothes wash. Viva the pilgrim life!

PS We now have less than 100km to go!

Day 32 Top of the World!

Today I conquered O Cebreiro! We started at 5.50 and I arrived at the big municipal aubergue at O Cebreiro at about 3pm. We started at around 500 metres above sea level and climbed to 1300m. We walked over 28km!  I am now in Galicia and can practically see Santiago from the mountain top.

It was a great walk with some steep parts and fantastic views. I'm tired but am in better shape than yesterday as it hasn't been so hot.

We shared breakfast with two cafe cats.

Day 34 A lovely walk through Galicia

Today we walked 28km through the Galician countryside - drystone walls and bridges, rolling hills, lush grass and wonderful ancient trees, shady avenues and lovely old villages and churches.

It was cool and overcast in the morning when we set off after our breakfast in the aubergue at 6am. We walked with the headlamps through damp woody lanes and climbed 300m over a hill. It rained lightly at the top and we put the pack covers on.
But it soon cleared up.

We had an excellent coffee after the first 10km and greeted all the other pilgrims we know who joined us.

At lunchtime we arrived in Sarria which is a small town that is pilgrim crazy and we had lunch and got our first stamp in the church as now we need two a day.

Although  the stage finished in Sarria after 18km, we pushed on and did another 10k and have been rewarded  with a lovely quiet aubergue in the middle of nowhere that is a converted mill. It is very calm and peaceful, and the hospitalera is nice. We were the first people but now there are about 6 of us.

Day 33 Just 21km to Triacastela

Last night Irena and I had a pilgrim's menu with wine to celebrate our climb. There were lots of other hungry pilgrims and a nice atmosphere. Then we went to look round the village, visit the church and sit looking out over the mountains.

We slept in the huge dorm with around 70 beds and were woken by some twit's alarm  that went off every 5min from 5am. We just got up in the end and left in the dark and trekked through the woodland path with our torches.

It was a great day for walking - sunny but not too hot and the green Galician countryside and dark stone houses and rural villages were very attractive. We also had fantastic views.

The camino population is evolving with more big groups of kids joining the stream.

We arrived in Triacastela suddenly at around 12, and we ate lunch in a noisy cafe while we decided  where to stay. Our aubergue is a stone house with uneven wooden floors and a much appreciated quiet charm. It is called Aitzenia.

Day 31 A good walk to Villafranca del Bierzo

Last night we went to pilgrim mass in the chapel next to the albergue as it was St James' day. It was nice with a small choir and a guitarist. Then we were all invited for sangria and a piece of pie in celebration outside in the garden. There was a really lovely atmosphere with  singing, kids playing, talking and laughter.

We got up early the next day and ate breakfast of guacamole and bread with a much appreciated vending machine cafe con leche.

We walked past the remains of the Knights Templar castle and out through the leafy suburbs of Ponferrada.

We walked through a mixture of  vineyards and small attractive towns like Cacabellos. We did over 25km as we took the older route over the hills rather than following the road.

We are now in the glorious aubergue Leo with clean sheets and hand towels and soap and kind  hosts.  Just 10 eur.So far it is wonderfully quiet. We left the first place we went to after taking a dislike to the woman who ran  it.

Tomorrow the last mountain is to be climbed. Then we'll be in Galicia.