Day 5 Pamplona to Mendizabal

Today was the climb up the Mount of Forgiveness(Alto de Perdon) and the tricky track down the other side. The weather said heavy rain and we could see the dark clouds and rain showers both to the north and south but luckily the downpour did not come on the camino.

I had a nice chat with a Catalun called Jauma (James) and the Slovenian girl Jira who is just 17, and with a Brazilian called Pablo and later a South African woman. The Danish group who keep leap-frogging me called me over and  offered me fresh brewed coffee (they had a little camping stove) and a piece of chocolate and we chatted about Brexit.

I met up again with Josh and Moira but at Muruzabal I decided to stop and not go on to Puerte La Reina as my heel was becoming rather sore and I did not want to push on. Today I managed another 20 km and according to a sign have 697 km to go.

Day 4 Seeing Pamplona

After a short rest, I went out to visit the cathedral and walk the bull run in Pamplona. The festival is next week so I could see the carpenter's constructing the barriers and holding pen. The city was lively and inviting. I liked walking round.

I had a glass of wine and a nice spinach and prawn type of vol-au-vont pinchos.

Back at the aubergue I met Josh and Moira again and we agreed to go out later for a beer. We went to a very popular tapas bar called Zanpa and enjoyed a couple of beers and some fantastic tapas. Great atmosphere in Pamplona - people having fun and enjoying themselves.

Day 4 Arrive in Pamplona

Last night I had a lovely meal cooked by Nobert the Japanese chef in the albergue, along with Park from S Korea (very serious person)  and Tomaya from Osaka who works in the Harry Potter theme park there. Norbert produced stuffed mushrooms, stuffed green peppers and a vegetable dish with pasta. We gave him 3 euros for his efforts and I brought a bottle of wine and Tomaya gave us all biscuits for dessert.

There was also a group of 2 Americans (Josh and Moira) and a Slovenian girl and German boy cooking together and another big happy group of Italians who cooked together later. Everyone was in a good mood.

I was lucky to arrive just before an absolute downpour as the trail was very steep down into Zubiri. Later there was another downpour with hail.

I set off after 6 and  got to Pamplona by 12. I was worried about rain but I managed to get to my aubergue just before the gentle rain came.

She'll be coming round the mountain

Today I left Orisson at 7.45 and walked in thick cloud up the mountain, past sheep and Pyrenees ponies. There were plenty of other pilgrims in front of me and behind.  At 9.30 I had a cup of tea at a little stand and watched the witches brew of cloud in the valley. Then off into Spain and down the mountain to Roncesvalles and the collegiale run by Dutch volunteers for pilgrims. I took a gentler but longer route down and walked alone in the last section. There were a few vultures circling lower and lower overhead.

Now I have my bed organised and dinner at 7pm. Today I walked 17.1 km in 5.5 hours carrying a 9kg pack with water. No serious aches and no blisters. I feel tired but good and like I need to learn how to ask, 'where is the nearest beer?' in Spanish.

A Pilgrim is Born

Yesterday I tried the dorm sleeping arrangements of the albergue - not too bad with earplugs. I also got my credential - a paper on which to collect stamps as I travel to verify my journey. I also got my shell for my pack and today I finally actually started to walk. A great walk up to the mountain refuge Orisson where I will stay the night. People waved at me and called out 'Buen camino!', I had a nice chat with a Scottish woman who lived nearby and had been an extra in the film The Way. The weather forcast said storms but there was just 5 min of light warm rain - other than that it was warm but not too hot.

Now I've had a beer and a slice of Tortilla, a shower and a chat with a young woman from Poole. After writing this entry I plan to do a bit of reading and later will be the communal dinner.

It's a hard life being a pilgrim but someone's got to do it :)

Wed week 1 To Zubiri

Last night I had a great meal with Greta and Lyndsey, Lane and Al and Sasha the German. Then we went to the pilgrim mass to get our blessing for our journey.

Today I set off at the crack of dawn without breakfast and walked 2km to the nearest village to have a cup of cafe con leche and a filled croisant. Then a great walk for a total of 20km to Zuberi. No blisters, some aches and tiredness. Managed to get a bed with a nice group of Japanese people who I know a little from Orisson. Then it started to pour with rain - a downpour. I was glad I was already accommodated!

The journey - Paris and Bayonne

Paris was a city of contrasts with the strang plot that was the bus station next to a high end shopping centre and swanky restaurants.

I sat next to a nice German pilgrim when was off to do the northern route and the overnight journey was long but fine and in the morning we arrived in Bayonne. A lovely historical town with an open bakery so I could buy a piece of quiche to eat in front of the cathedral.

There was no train to St Jean Pied de Porte till 3 but a Bulgarian pilgrim got a lift to the village of Cambo and took me along and from there we hitched a short lift with two French men - one of them shook his head slowly and sadly when he learnt I was English.

St Jean has a massive citadel which we climbed to see and then after a glass of good red wine I slept like a baby.

First 'buen camino'

Waiting at the airport for the flight. A young man wished me 'buen Camino'when we got off the train at Bratislava. The first one in the field.

The Journey to Santiago

Tomorrow I'm flying to Paris and taking an overnight bus to Bayonne. On Sunday morning I shall take a train to St Jean Pieds de Port and on Monday I'll walk the first short stage (8km) to the Refuge Orisson in the Pyreneese. I shall then walk over the mountain to Roncesvalles in Spain (17.5km).