A nice evening in Boente

After having a look at some of the village houses, we had a rest and then went down to dinner. We both had the pork knuckle with a nice salad and really enjoyed it. It rained a bit and we saw the last few pilgrims going past in the plastic macs. Hopefully tomorrow will be dry. 

O Coto to Boente via Melide

We had a nice walk of about 12km today after a good breakfast at Casa de Los Somoza. It was overcast and cooler, but without rain so good walking weather. We crossed the ancient medieval pointed bridge. 

We stopped in Melide and talked to two South African sisters. We enjoyed watching people at the market, and we bought some nice plums. We sat down for a glass of orange juice and pie and to watch everyone at the market. 

Then we set off for Boente. We had some hills and dales but we managed well and we could have walked further on today. We have a nice big room in Albergue de Boente. We sat outside and watched Pilgrim TV and then we went to the church over the road to collect a stamp. Now Mum is soaking her feet in a huge laundry bowl that they found for her. 

A pleasant evening at O Coto

We had a little wander around the hamlet, and then ordered Galician soup and hake with vegetables at our Casa. There was a mix of locals - two couples playing cards, a girl in her confirmation dress - and pilgrim groups. We sat and enjoyed the sun, the atmosphere

and watched the cats and discussed our plans.

Today we also saw our first sheep, Mum was called a hero by the woman in the tabac and a yoing American girl told Mum she had a great hat! 

Os Valos to O Coto

Today was a longer walk but Mum had no problems. We had a gentle walk to Palas del Rei where we bought postcards and peaches and had cafe con leche and watched the pilgrims. Then we powered on to San Xulian de Camino where we took a break and sat beneath vines. It was now getting hotter and this stage is now a level 3 for difficulty up from level 2. We climbed up to Casanova where we met the Berliners from breakfast again, and we stopped for orange juice at a little stop just before O Coto. We met two Americans on the way, the woman was having problems with her heel and she sounded very envious when she heard we were doing 12km a day. Our stopping place is Casa de los Somoza, which is a wonderful oasis of calm luxury. We had beers, tortilla and empanada and handed over our dirty washing. Then we called Ed to wish him well. Now we are relaxing. 

Castromaior to Os Valos

We had breakfast in the little bar - Mum had a proper teapot and hot water for her morning tea so she was happy. We had a chat with a Polish Canadian while we ate.

We set off up the hill again past the fort, and ended up going along with the squawky family - two tired parents pulling all their luggage and three kids in a little cart. If they coaxed a kid out of the cart, the sqawking would start up till they were all back in again. As they passed Mum asked if she could get in too.

We stopped for a coffee at Ventos and visited a small chapel that was built from a Templar hospice.

Mum sat down on the path on a steep rocky section named the Devil's gullet as she watched a cow scratch its head on the fence. Another pilgrim and I helped her up and we stopped for an orange juice and to watch the pilgrims go by. The last section was long and hot. Everyone was wilting. It seemed neverending. We did eventually get to Hosteria Calixtina and Mum revived after giving her feet a soak in cool water. We had a beer and shared a jamon sandwich and watched a nice family birthday gathering. We then went to have a rest.

The Castro of Castromaior

A cultural interlude

In the evening we walked up to visit the archeological remains of the hillfort above the village. It was a bit of a hike to get up there but interesting to walk around and through the homes of the people who lived on the hilltop over 2000 years ago.

We met the Arizonans from the Casa at the bar and we said hello. We enjoyed our pilgrim menu and later had a chat with a woman from Mexico City. 

Portomarín to Castromajor

Today we had a good breakfast and set off up the big hill out of Portomarín. Mum got up there like a trooper. We stopped to eat our cherries and say hello to the other pilgrims. The weather forecast kept saying rain, and we saw some ominous low clouds over the hills to the south, but it held off. We stopped in Gonzar for a coffee and then went on to Castomajor where we stopped in the nice cafe for amazing bacon and cheese sandwiches and beer. Then we went to take our rooms - all is well. 

Portomarín - the good life

We had a rest and enjoyed our views of the river. We had a wander round the town and got a stamp at the imposing romanesque church of Saint Nicholas. Then we found an excellent pilgrim's menu at Abe&Pau in the cool stone arcade. We had really delicious gilded perch - dorado, which I initially translated as gold fish.

In the evening we went out to buy cherries and we went to mass at the church and then we drank beer on the 

main square and watched the evening show on Pilgrim TV.

Ferriero to Portomarín

We set off with the Bilboa school group at 8.30 and had a lovely walk in cool weather to Portomarín - 9km away. We had lovely views of the hills and town on the other side of the river. We met some cheery Irish women and ran into a group of about 100 Spanish kids. It got hotter as we walked and the stone steps up to the town were hard work, but now we are in luxury rooms with river views and air-conditioning and all is well. Mum is doing great and her feet seem to be fine in her excellent boots. 

It were luxury! A Night in Ferreiro

In the evening Mum revived after a little rest and we went across the road to the restaurant where we had our first pilgrim's menu - a three course meal with wine or water for 10 eur. We both had the Galician soup which came quickly with thick pieces of bread, and which we really enjoyed. Then Mum had braised beef and salad and I had veal and chips, and for pudding Mum had a yoghurt with a packet of sugar and I had cheesecake. Then we sat and looked out at the countryside in the sunny evening and inspected the plants and said hello to another cat of the camino and watched the farmer in his tractor. 

Sarria to Ferreiros

We walked over 12km through the lush Galician countryside. It was also quite a climb - we ascended over 200m, some parts quite steep. We met plenty of merry pilgrims - most people looked like they were enjoying the walk. It wasn't too hot - there were sunny spells and more overcast periods. We stopped 3 times for a drink and to air our feet. Mum was pretty tired by the end but we have our private room with a nice bathroom in Ferreiros Albergue Casa Cruceiro - she is having a lie down while I put our clothes through the wash. 

Getting to Sarria

We caught our train to Sarria in the morning. After all my plans for Mum to walk into Santiago de Compostela, the train stopped there. Mum was asked to close her eyes and not look, and she promptly fell asleep.

Found the albergue where we have a private room. We went for lunch but the place was full. We joined in another part of the fiesta in town with music, dancing and a bar. On the basis of yesterday's invitation we now consider ourselves invited to all the fiestas in Spain. 

We had a rest and climbed the hill to the Calle Major, the main street through town, thronging with pilgrims. On the way we met a man who carves the wooden walking sticks. We visited the church where we got a proper stamp to start our journey and Mum got her shell for her rucksack. Then we had a drink and were given a slice of pizza to go with it, and we watched the world go by.

A Midsummer Night's Dream

Fiesta in the city. We saw people buying traditional bunches of herbs, there was music on each square with drink stands and barbecues. We made our way back to Deportivo where the owner was frying up sardines. We had a drink  and enjoyed being part of the celebration. We ate the delicious sardines with our fingers. Then we walked back to the hotel. At midnight there was a big firework display but we were already tucked up in bed. 

A Day out in A Coruña

We had a wonderful walk around the sea front at A Coruña, up to the Tower of Hercules lighthouse and round to the harbour and into the old town. We had lovely meal at a lively family restaurant and were invited back for the fiesta tonight for the feast of St John. 

Arriving in A Coruña

Met Mum as planned at midnight in A Coruna airport. I felt like Tom Hanks in The Terminal as I waited in the empty hall.

Great stay in Bratislava with Barbara with Dorotka too, and we had an enjoyable night out on the town on Friday. We say the first camino sign in Bratislava.