Leaving behind the Arctic Circle

Today we packed up and left the camp in plenty of time to catch the ferry from Moskenes to Bodo on the mainland. Unfortunately we hit a roadblock at a tunnel which lasted for over an hour, making everyone in the increasingly long queue anxious, as most were also off to catch the ferry.
Eventually we got through and bounced along over the unmade road. The ferry took 3 hours 15 min and the crossing was smooth. We set off from Bodo towards Oslo, the road turning inland and climbing into the mountains and through the Nordland national park.

We stopped to photograph the wild rapids of the river Gubbeltaga, and we passed out of the Arctic Circle and stopped to look at the cairns and buy some souvenirs. We can now look forward to night again.

We stopped at a simple but nice campsite at a spot called Fjellgard. We had some supper and finally finished the rum.

A Day at Ramberg (Lofoten)

We spent another night at our Ramberg campsite so we had time to enjoy the beaches and take cycle rides round the coast.

Katka and Maros visited an organ concert at the local church, I watched the oystercatchers and their chicks on the shores, and we all enjoyed the ripe aroma of stockfish heads drying on their wooden structures.

It was a lovely sunny day (and night) and quite warm with a brisk breeze.

Arrival on Lofoten Islands

Today we travelled around 200km from Gullesfjordbotn to a campsite at Ramberg on the picturesque Lofoten islands. We stopped at a big Viking Museum at Borg which had a model viking ship out sailing the fjord.

At the campsite there was a seagull of evil intent who had his eye on the grill.

Fishing Tales

We stayed another night at the campsite by the fjord near Gullesfjordbotn. We went fishing in a little rowing boat with a line and some hooks of different shapes, and we caught such a huge fish - probably a massive cod. Unfortunately it jumped out of the boat and swam off just as Maros was about to kill it. Luckily our Norwegian neighbours in the caravan next door had better luck and gave us a huge fresh fish - possibly a coalfish. Maros killed, gutted and descaled it and Katka fried it for us and we ate it happily.

We also had some hiking, bike riding, reading and finally clothes washing.

Andenes and Whale Watching

Today we had to get up earlier to check in for the whale safari. We had a guide who took us round a small museum to give us information about the whales or dolphins we would see.

Eg sperm whales have blow hole on the left side of head due to the right one developing into the sonar chamber. They have the biggest brain of any known animal (8kg). The lone males are in the colder north where there is more food. The mothers and young stay in groups in temperate regions where it is safer.

Then we had an hour's break and we had coffee and cake in the caravan, and then we boarded the boat. There were about 40 people on the safari with us.

We sailed out for over two hours to the deep Bleik canyon. On the way we saw 10-15 pilot whales (the biggest dolphins) and watched as they leaped out in groups of three or five. Then we located a sperm whale using a microphone beneath the boat to listen for the clicks they make when diving and these sounds were broadcast on deck. We saw the same individual three times and there was a sighting of a second sperm whale a long way off. Maros spotted it though and pointed it out. When the whale was on the surface there was an intent silence as we all watched and photographed it. The first time after the whale dived people started clapping. It was amazing to see the dolphins and whales in the wild. (My photos aren't great but I shall try and post more from Maros later).

Then we were given hot soup and a roll as we returned to the harbour. We had left in the boat at 12.00 and we got back just before 6pm. The sea was quite calm and it was about 10°C but it got pretty cold on deck for all that time, although we were all three of us dressed as warmly as we could get.

Then we drove south for an hour and a half towards the Lofoten islands and we stopped at a small campsite on the edge of a fjord. We had delicious spagetti for tea with a whole head of garlic in the sauce to keep us healthy and then we all slept like little logs after the long day.

We have now travelled around 4,500km on this holiday - about the same distance to travel coast to coast across the USA. We met an English couple at the campsite and on the whale safari who couldn't quite believe how far we had travelled.

Harstad to Andenes on the Vesteralen

Today we had a great breakfast by the sea in the sun. It was 16°C so we were boiling! We saw an oystercatcher who kindly stayed on his rock while I raced like a gazelle to the campervan to pick up my camera to photograph him. We also saw sea urchins, jelly fish, mussels and a huge flock of gulls along the shore.

Then we parked on the edge of town and walked along the shore path to the Trondenes Historical Centre - a small interactive museum about the viking history of the area and the history of the little church. We learnt about the killing of King Olaf and the medieval trade with the Sami fur trappers. We saw a German motorbike from the occupation and a tapestry depicting the vikings presented to the museum by the wife of the Scot who made it. (He died in 2000).

Then we travelled 200 km to Andenes. It was 19°C in the afternoon but a proper 11°C on the northern isle of Andoya. We travelled on a ferry across a fjord from Reysnes to Flesnes on the way. At Andenes we booked places on the whale safari for the next day and travelled on to Stave to a campsite.

Skibotn to Harstad

We had a nice breakfast outside in the sun and then Katka and Maros went for a bike ride and I went for a walk. Next to the camp there was a bird reserve and you could see the gulls fishing in the river. On my walk I saw a red squirel but he was camera shy and as I stood still to take the picture mosquitoes took the chance to have an early lunch. The temperature was now 13°C. Katka and Maros went into the town and found a small marina.

Maros hosed down the back of the campervan and has put his reindeer and Nordkapp stickers up.

Then we packed up and set off 270 km to Harstad. Again the scenery was wonderful and the roads were clear and we got to Harstad at 18.30. I watched Germans gutting fish they had caught as I cleaned some strawberries.

We had a delicious tea of tomato soup and potatoes with onion, and sour milk to drink. Then Katka and Maros went for a bike ride and I have stayed to read and look out over the sea.