Starting the Course D4

Before starting the hard work of sitting up straight and trying to look engaged at the art course, first I had to solve the issue of dirty washing. I decided to visit the laundry services of Lavanderia Gabriella near San Marco Square and I set off at 7.30 over the peaceful Accademia bridge and through the city heading north. Google helped me find the place and I had a nice simple breakfast next door while waiting for them to open. 

I had plenty of time to get back, have a second shower and head out to the gallery to meet the group. 

We had a very interesting tour for an hour and a half with an excellent guide. The building itself was beautiful as well as the art. There was also an exhibition by Anish Kapoor which was grim in places and engaging in others.

Sunday evening in Venice D3.2

After viewing paintings of hell and paradise, I decided to take the vaparetto up the grand canal to the train station and visit the park there. It was lovely to escape the crowds, sit by the fountain, watch the birds and enjoy the shade of the trees for an hour. 

Then I walk back along the canals in a leisurely way. It was so easy to find my way, unlike the first evening. I had a great beer at the Accademia bar where a young busker was playing the bassoon with great elan, and there was a lovely view of the dome of the Santa Maria della Salute. 

I then felt peckish so I wandered to the Corner bar and had some chicchetti and another glass of beer by the canal. It was still hot when I made my way back to the hotel. I watched a family getting out of a water taxi at the Hotel American next door with an amazing number of huge suitcases. 

Then I enjoyed sitting outside on thw now cooler patio, reading and sipping the miracle of water.

A Venetian Sunday D3

I knew it would be hot, hot hot so I left the hotel very early and walked over the Accademia bridge and enjoyed the beautiful views of the grand canal. Then I walked to the northern edge and the vaparetto stop Fondamente nova.

 On the way I had a continental breakfast and a second coffee in a pizza place that was preparing to open. 

I took the vaparretto to Burano and changed to Torcello. The earliest church is there, the mysterious basilica with its glowing golden frescos: a hot, flaming vision of hell that reminded me of the last few days. A wonderful mosaic floor, cool interiors, pools, lizards and a hot dusty road to and from the vaporetto stop. 

The heat was now unbelievable. In the direct sunlight I felt like I was toiling under the pitiless eye of sauron, even the boat rides were hot and airless. A boy was crying. Old people looked on the point of collapse. I took 4 vaporettos to get to Accademia and then fell exhasted into a seat beside the canal at a nice restaurant by my hotel.

The waiter brought me a large bottle of water and I gulped nearly the whole bottle down before the starter arrived. 

 The seafood starter was lovely with a glass of wine, but the next course of fish was huge and in the hot weather I could hardly eat much of it. I was looking forward to a siesta in my room. 

When I got there, it now seemed a wonderful room. The view of the canal delightful, the cool air from the aircon miraculous and the crisp sheets inviting. 

Journey to Venice D2.2

It seems like I have a lot to be grateful for on this journey: my seat on the packed train, the helpful receptionist Kia at the Casa Accademia who was there to meet my late arrival, the helpful train conductor, the kind people who guided me and gave me info, the conductor who accepted my ticket for the previous month. I hadn't noticed and neither did he.  

We all had to get off the train and take a bus to Udine. Then I needed two more trains to Venice. It was 9.20 pm when we arrived at Santa Lucia instead of 19.50 and a vaporetto strike had started so the area in front of the train station was full of miserable arrivals like me with luggage. Luckily I was packed for the camino with a rucksack.

Kia had told me about the strike earlier so I was prepared for a 40min hike through the hot and humid city through dark narrow streets: murderer's alleys. Eventually thanks ti google maps and plenty of reroutes I got to the hotel at 10pm. I was absoltutely drenched in sweat, I looked like I had swum there in the canal, and exhausted. I couldn't even find my room on my floor until a mother and daughter helped me find it. I was disappointed at first. My room looked bare, the bed narrow and uncomfortable, the furniture old. It was hot and airless and I thought the aircon wasn't working.

Things were going to get better.

Morning in Vienna D2

Got up early and went straight out into the warm but more pleasant morning. It was a peaceful Saturday - not many people. I made my way towards the Belvedere Palace and glimpsed a fountain through trees that seemed like a kind of paradise in these hot days.

 I also spotted two police cars and the monument to the Soviet Army. 

I walked to the ringroad and the cafes were preparing to open but the only place actually open was MacD, so I got my first coffee and a chocolate croissant there. The server was nice and we had a chat. She said she didn't like the narrow streets in Venice.

Then I walked to the Belvedere Gardens and watched the joggers and peered into the botanical gardens. 

As I made my way back towards the hotel, I came across a proper traditional Viennese cafe - The Golden Egg. The waiters were fresh and energetic, the ceiling fans were cooling and the coffee and orange juice were refreshing. I felt I had finally enjoyed a little of the Viennese experience. 

I bought a most impractical second-hand rucksack, packed and went to the train station.

Vienna - Venice Adventure D1

Journey from Banska to Bratislava, Petrazalkova train station in a lovely air-conditioned car driven by a great driver. Travelled with Katka, grandson Max and son-in-law. Then I had coffee in Brat with Greta as well, who I finally met after sending her photos of her mother.

Then on to Vienna by train and a walk in the hot, hot sun along the right road for my hotel but the wrong direction. I realised when I saw the name of the tube station. So I hopped on the tube and the Hotel Josef Strauss was just by tube stop. 

After freshening up, I went out into the sweltering city. I walked to the Museums Quarter. It was hot in the shade and just unbearable in direct sunlight. 

I had a small meal in the Kantina and revived. 

I walked some more and saw the interesting Beethoven memorial. Enjoyed watching the scooters and cyclists whizzing around. But it really was scorching. In the end I had a beer at a small Austrian/Vietnamese bar near the hotel and watched the locals walking their dogs.

Afterwards I returned to the hotel exhausted. It was nice to revive with the aircon. 

D2 Christmas dinner and a swim

While Fi, Pete, Jonathan, Nick, Katya, Sukey, Daniel and I all went to try and find the mysterious Anchor Church Cave and have a swim, Ed and Nonie cooked us all a massive turkey dinner
with all the trimmings.

The walk to the cave involved stingy nettles as tall as we were, mud, slippery slopes, stiles of different kinds, Jonathan falling over and lots of excitement. We had a look around the mysterious cave. Five brave swimmers then went into the freezing waters for a swim. Their names are recorded for posterity as: Fi, me, Jonathan, Daniel and Sukey. Katya was the swan-whisperer - she helped us gently remove the swan that appeared at the entry spot looking to be fed.

As we made our way back it began to bucket with rain. We returned tired but content with our adventure.

We washed all our clothes and towels and then enjoyed a delicious Christmas dinner!