I rushed out to catch the end of the match at a bar. Beer, pinchos - two pieces of deep-fried pig, possibly ear, and an England win which wasn't a horrible scramble or penalties. Great! This camino stuff seems to work - thanks St James.
Saturday, 7 July 2018
Day 13: SdC to A Coruna and Ferrol
The others got up before 4 to get their taxi to the airport. I slept on till 8. I went to the Pilgrim's office to pick up another credential for the Camino Ingles and went for the usual breakfast at the cafe on the end of Charitas street. Then I set off to the train station helped by a kind young student doctor from Venezuala called Marianna. I went on the fast train to the huge hot bright noisy city of A Coruna. It seemed to be full of cars and though I had 2.5 hours to look around I didn't manage to get to the old town. The park was nice and cool though, with lots of benches with people having picnics or playing cards. I went for a 6 eur lunch menu with jamon. I imagined a plate of ham and tomatoes with some bread. I got two fried eggs, bacon and interesting chipped potatoes just on the cusp of being crisps.
The journey on the slow train to Ferrol had nice views of the coast and estuary. I wondered how the others were getting on in Madrid.
I wandered around a bit until I found my hotel - a cheap room with a tiny bath at Hotel Almendra. Proper towels, shampoo sachet, soap, sheets - luxury! There were no other pilgrims on my train though - very different from starting in St John or Sarria.
Day 12: Fisterra to Santiago
A bright sunny day in Fisterra. We decided to take the bus back at 3pm. Zlatica and I had a nice walk along the harbour walls and look at the market stalls that were set up in the morning - mostly clothes, some fruit and veg, a stall with enormous loaves of bread and regional cheeses.
Then we cleared the flat and went back to El Galeon where they welcomed us a small slice of Spanish omelette with our beers. We watched the customers of the Pirate next door enjoying their meals.
In Santiago we enjoyed an evening walk round the happy crowded Friday night streets. We shared a salad with a plate of Galician cheese and anchovies, and we really enjoyed it. We watched the light of the setting sun on the stone buildings and danced and clapped with a Galician band playing under the arches of the ministry of culture. A great end to our trip.
Day 11: An evening out in Fisterra
Dasa and Taňa prepared a nice lunch of pasta for us in the flat which we had with a glass of red wine. Later we went for a walk around the coast. For dinner I ordered some razor clams which I have seen them bring in at the fish auction house and Zlatica had plaice. Then we went out for a beer and tried some of the local drinks - a herb liquor and the favourite - oruja bianca. So good we invented a dance in its honour.
Thursday, 5 July 2018
Day 11: A walk to the end of the world
We all had a lie in and got up after 8. We had a dip in the bay before breakfast. Zlatica paddled and Taňa and I swam. Then breakfast in the apartman - eggs, tea, cheese, pan y tomata, olive oil and salt in little packs of 5 portions. Then a hike along the Cabo finisterre. I walked alone to the little stone hermitage via a failed short cut to a secret clearing of bee hives. The hermitage had the remains of an altar and a strange stone bed that I lay down in. I crouched on a huge rock and in the mist I realised the town of Fisterra was in the opposite direction to the one I expected. I texted the others and am sipping a beer in the harbour while waiting for them to get back.