Day 4: Ventnor, Bonchurch and the beach

Today was another hot day. We decided to spend it enjoying Ventnor. We walked down one of the footpaths but had to return when it got too steep, and we called in at  the pottery after breakfast though the house number plate wasn't ready. We went for a refreshing swim in the sea and then walked on to Ventnor and hopped on the bus back.
We went for a lovely pot of tea and scones at the Smuggler's Haven and enjoyed the views out over the sea. We saw the steep path down to the beach. Maybe it really had been used by smugglers.
After a siesta we walked to Bonchurch pond and along the seafront to Ventnor where we had cod and chips in the Millbay. We walked back up the steep road towards the Royal Hotel, got stamps and caught the bus again back to the guesthouse.

Day 3: Dinner at The Royal Hotel, Ventnor

We had a reservation for 8.15pm (very Queen Victoria) and by 6.30 we were starving so we ate half our Quarr Abbey cheese to tide us over. We set off at around 7pm so that we had plenty of time to walk to the Hotel and find it in Ventnor. We had a sherry in the bar and then were shown through to our table in the grand dining room. We ordered from the Table d'Hote menu and it was wonderful - each dish was beautifully prepared and presented and was full off flavour and contrasting textures. Mum had the wood pigeon as a starter and I had  the pickled mackerel. We both had the lamb for the main with fantastic vegetables - really intense peas! Then Mum went for the crumble and I had the raspberry and pistachio cake. We then walked home in the moonlight, and had a cup of tea.

Day 3: Quarr Abbey v2

After an early morning swim, and a great breakfast, Mum opened her birthday presents and  then we set off to Quarr Abbey, oasis of quiet and tranquility. We visited the old remains, the modern abbey, teashop, hens and fed the pigs.

Day 2: Osborne House

I had an early morning dip in the pool. After a great English breakfast, Mum and I caught the bus to Newport. We sat on the top deck and had a wonderful view of the sea and countryside. At Newport we caught the bus to Osborne House helped by a nice island couple. We sat next to a group of voluble but very polite Italian teenagers.
At Osborne House we inspected carefully every painting, ornament, piece of furniture and soft furnishing. It was rather crowded but well-managed. The house is a rather intimate glimpse into the family life of Queen Victoria including the royal bath, the nursery with the little table and chairs, the writing desks of Victoria and Albert side by side, as well as showing the grandeur and craftsmanship of the time in the state rooms especially the Durbar Room. We also walked to the Swiss Cottage and the lovely beach where we got the Italians to budge up and make room for us in the alcove that Queen Victoria liked to sit in. We had a lovely ice cream and ate them sitting on wicker chairs on the veranda next to the Royal bathing machine.
Later when we returned and we got off the bus in Ventnor. We walked down to the seafront and spotted people queuing to buy fish and chips at the fish market. We bought some ourselves and a pint each and enjoyed our evening meal outside on a picnic bench overlooking a paddling pool for kids and the sea. Later as we walked back to the guest house, two fishermen pointed out a seal to us in the water.

Day 1: Lymington to Ventnor, Isle of Wight

My first visit to the Isle of Wight. Mum and I are on the ferry at Lymington going across to Yarmouth. The cars loaded onto the ferry and then were winched up to allow more vehicles on below.
We drove to our luxurious guesthouse in Upper Bonchurch. After a nice cup of tea and cake, we walked down to the sea, visited a small pottery workshop, walked along the sea front to Ventnor, saw a cormorant, climbed up the steep roads back to the guesthouse.
In the evening we went for dinner to Bonchurch Inn for a lovely meal. Then we walked back via some wonderful views of the sea. The Isle of Wight is great!

Day 21: Sigueiro to Santiago

Roseanna was determined to walk in to Santiago with us this morning and she managed it. We had a good16km walk - a bit overcast and a brief shower but good walking weather. It was a nice approach through oak forest.
We met one of the pilgrim kids lying on the track with cramps. Her friend had called the carers who came running back to her. I gave her one of my dehydration tablets and we gave her some water.
Santiago is full of arriving pilgrims. I lasted 5 min in the Pilgrim's Office before I left the massive long queue for the Compostela. I had a beer and some delicious Galician cheese instead. I also bumped into Rick and Alexandra.

Now I am in my posh room on Rue de Villar near the cathedral. Quiet, refined, and all mine!

Tomorrow I fly to London. The summer's pilgrimages are over.

Day 20: Bruma to Sigueiro

A lovely walk but was tired by the end as we entered Sigueiro. Roseanna went by bus and saw a doctor in Sigueiro and was waiting for us. She cried as she saw us off in the morning and wished us Buen Camino. 

In the late afternoon we met up with Rick (the American) and Alexandra (the Mexican) in the one cafe bar that was serving food at that time. We had a lot of fun talking to them. It also poured with rain outside. 

Now we are back in our posh albergue with sheets and towels and sachets of shower gel. We are tired but happy. 

Day 19: Invasion of the Dream Snatchers

At the albergue as I sat with Roseanna and Tereza I saw a look of horror appear on their faces as they looked out of the window - from both the Italians and from the American I have been hearing separate tales of woe concerning a children's group travelling the camino - the tales involve noise, water fights, footprints on the toilet seats, sharp words, lack of sleep etc. Guess who got the last beds in our albergue? The Spanish darlings and their carers. Roseanna became particularly animated and began to rave about respect in rapid stacatto and give the new arrivals the Italian version of the stink eye. I said we mustn't let them sleep now in the afternoon so we started a rousing chorus of Yesterday and Yellow Submarine. When the Mexican woman understood our strategy she began to join in by banging two pots together. The children have walked a long way today so my theory is they will sleep like logs later. But I gave Roseanna my spare pair of earplugs in case.

First picture shows the American demonstrating how he was going to shush them. He made one of the carers roar with laughter when she understood. 

Day 19: Presedo to Bruma

I spent a nice evening yesterday at the albergue and restaurant chatting to an American and a Mexican woman. At Hospital de Bruma there is only the small municiple albergue with 22 beds and it is a horrible bottleneck in terms of accommodation. Tereza and I got up at 6 and set off at 6.30 as contestants in the crazy camino bed race. We went at a racketing pace only stopping for Tereza to take her heart pills and to wipe the sweat off our faces. We communicated in a mixture of Italian English Spanish French and hand gesture. We eventually got to a small bar where we allowed ourselves to have a coffee and the owner added a small madeline cake each and gave us chairs to rest our feet on. We learnt we only had 3km to go to Bruma which was a miracle. I thought we had another 8 km. We arrived first at the albergue with only Roseanna ahead of us as the hospitalera yesterday advised her not to walk but go by taxi. She cried when we arrived. It is now only 10 am and we have 2 more hours till the albergue opens such is the price of athletic excellence.

Day 18: Betanzos to Presedo

Today was just a short 12km walk to the small albergue in Presedo. It was a nice walk through woods and villages and I met up with Patrick the New Yorker who had also stayed an extra day in Betanzos. We had a good talk and soon we were in Presedo and parted company. I found a bed at the albergue, had a shower, washed my clothes with a hose and got to the local restaurant in time for lunch all before 12.30. I sat for lunch with two nice Italian ladies Roseanna and Teresa and we discussed football and caminos. Poor Roseanne has tendonitis and her ankle is painful and swollen. An English family from Barnsley has arrived on a table behind us and had a cooling spray for Roseanne's leg. Tomorrow I go on to Hospital de Bruma.

Day 17: Rest Day Betanzos Evening

I went at 6 to get a place at a small bar Tapas 74 with a couple of screens. Inside a group of blokes were supporting Croatia. I enjoyed a couple of beers with Russian salad, croquettes and small sausages.
At the end of full time I moved to the small pastry shop at the end of my road to watch the end. A nice local sympathised and we agreed that Croatia had played well.

Day 17: pics Betanzos

Morning in Betanzos

It is nice not to have to hurry anywhere and I hope that by resting a day that there will be less of a race for beds tomorrow when I set off for the albergue in Presedo (just 12km).
This morning I have meandered round all the streets of the old town. Then I had tapas in the excellent Taberna 1931 - crowded but relaxed in that way the best Spanish bars seem to manage. I had a plate of 3x small pieces of fried cheese, bacon, sunflower seeds and honey - a lovely mixture of tastes and textures. I also had a small piece of tortilla, a sardine in oil, and two pieces of deep fried squash with pumpkin seeds, cheese, thinstrips of seaweed. Very enjoyable.

Day 17: Rest day in Betanzos for footie

I have decided to stay a second night in the Pension El Horreos in Betanzos. It is a town with a large number of big screens and the place I am going on to has just a small albergue. Now I need to find something to do in Betanzos till 8pm. Just starting on coffee no. 2.

Escape from the devil dog!

It finally happened - a wild, scruffy scottie dog tried to nip my heels as I passed his domain. I escaped by shouting loudly - 'Help! Help! The dog of the camino is trying to kill me!' until an ancient crone came out of the house and chased the devil dog off. It was a close thing, but I survived.
Lit a candle to St. Roche.

Day 16: pics

Day 16: Pontedeume to Betanzos

A decent walk today - 20km with a lot of ascents and descents. I left the albergue at around 6.45 and had breakfast in a cafe on the riverfront. It has been the best day's walking in terms of views and countryside. We climbed out of Pontedeume and had great views of the bay. We passed a beach and bird reserve at Mino. I booked a room yesterday at Pension El Horreos so there was no need to race for the albergue. I've had a great lunch in a proper restaurant Os Arcos - 3 courses with wine, the biggest piece of bread I've ever been given in a restaurant and decent service and proper napkins - all for 9.50 eur. I met Felix on the way and two Italians who may join me in the Pension. It is a bright sunny day. Time for a nap.

Day 15: Pontedeume

I walked with a group of 14 Italians over the hills and through the villages. I got talking to one called Julie who works in the EU commission in Brussels - naturally we discussed Brexit and Davies resignation today. The way had some beautiful views over the bay and soon we were walking across thefamous bridge into Pontedeume. I was person 3 at the municipal albergue down on the quay. Two Italians that helped me in Neda were there and they called the hospitalero while I enjoyed aa cool beer. Now I am showered and eating tapas in the old town. I have finally tried a plate ofpimientos de padron and a plate of croquetas at the Restaurante Compostella.

Day 15: Neda to Pontedeume

Yesterday was so peaceful at the albergue - people sitting quietly and writing their journals, sitting on the grass looking out over the estuary, sleeping or dozing. I met Felix again at Pension Margarot in the evening and I also had a chat with a New Yorker called Patrick. The hospitalero turned up at 8.30pm to check us all in and then I just sat outside soaking up the last rays of the sun. Today's section is just 16km but with a bit of a climb after the first 5km. Hopefully I'll find somewhere to drink cafe con leche before the hill.

The alarms started ringing before 6 in the albergue. I waited for most people to get going and then got on the road myself at around 7. It was a warm sunny day and I walked alone to Fena where I am having a coffe and juice at a very busy cafe before climbing the hill. The bull running in Pamplona is on about 10 screens in the cafe.