Today our pilgrimage ended. We walked in the morning from the suburbs into the historical centre of Santiago de Compostela. We went to the Pilgrim's Office to collect our Compostelas, found out about the bus to Finisterre and where to leave our packs, talked to a man in the Dutch pilgrim office, visited the tomb of the apostle, hugged St James' statue above the altar, took pictures on the main square where I enjoyed the sight of the cathedral without scaffolding. We had a coffee and pan y tomata at the cafe on the corner. The owner even sent us over and extra portion.
Then I went to hold places in the cathedral for the pilgrim mass and the others went to look around the historic streets. I read my book and talked to a Scottish couple who were visiting as part of a cruise. The mass was moving and the botofumeiro swung over the heads of the congregation. Taňa slept on the pew. The cathedral wasn't as big as the one in St Petersberg, which reminded me of my dad sleeping at the Bolshoi Ballet.
Then we made a dash to the bus station and caught the bus to Fisterra where we have a small apartment with wonderful views of the sea and palms, just above the 'Riviera' beach. We had a beer on the sea front near the fishing harbour and the fish market. Zlatica and I went for a stroll around the town and had a lovely meal of sea bass fillet in a restaurant overlooking the harbour. Then we met up with the others and had a closer look at the fish market - a man showed us the razors and the woman
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