After resting in my nice room with sheets, towels, soap and washing my clothes, I went to the pilgrim's mass in the church of San Juan de Ortega. The village has just 50 people and the church and monastery are rather grand and associated with the Santiago prilgrimage. San Juan de Ortega was a disciple of Santa Domingo and his life work was to clear the mountain path of bandits to allow safe passage for the pilgrims. Amen to that - my journey was completely bandit-free.
Then in the bar I heard someone say that they were a Slovak living in Germany and I went in to tell them that I was a Brit (do we have these any more?) living in Slovakia. That's how I met Maria who seemed equally pleased to meet another 'Slovak' and we spent the whole evening chatting in slightly odd Slovak.
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