Last night we had a nice communal meal in the aubergue with an urbane Pole, a Barcelonan cyclist, an Italian couple who didn't speak much English but graced the table with their goodwill and two American teachers from New York and New Jersey who were nice and had been next to us in the Leon aubergue.
The Spanish boys slept like babies and there was not a peep from them. We all had a decent breakfast together and then Irina and I set off at 6.45. It was only about 10°C when we set off.
We walked an unbelievable 29km today according to Irina. However, it seemed a bit easier than all the tarmac and road following yesterday as the path went through beautiful countryside and the attractive towns of Hospital de Orbigo and Astorga. We hit one village with the last remains of yesterday's fiesta and a crowd of weary drunken Spanish yoof. The next village over the hill played stirring music as the citizens went to mass. We stopped at David's Oasis and had watermelon and a rest. In Astorga we saw the cathedral and Gaudi palace and a Spanish visitor called out to us, 'Are you Santiago peregrinas?' and when we said yes she took photos of us. We stopped for calamari and lemonade before treking the last long dusty 5km to Murias. We are at the municipal aubergue which has just 12 places. It is very basic (and cheap) but at least we don't have bunk beds and we are so tired it is enough just to have a bed and a shower and maybe a glass of vino tinto later.
Tomorrow we will do just 20km but the last 5 will be the beginning of the climb over the Mountain of the Iron Cross (Cruz de Ferro). I picked up a stone today to leave there and Irina has one from home.
I have now walked over 500km and am on the last third of the journey!
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